Playgrounds in Passau

Since we’re about to leave Passau, it’s time for a round-up of some of our favorite places!

For a small town, there are a lot of great places for kids to play. Here are some of our favorite playgrounds, all within walking distance of the old city.

Bschütt Park


Located on the banks of the Ilz River, this amazing playground has something to please children of all ages. One section has a water feature, tree house, swings, and multiple places for climbing.


Playing in the water feature

There is also a more advanced rope climbing area for bigger kids and stronger climbers.


Hugo wasn’t brave enough to attempt this one

Dotted throughout the park are various skill games, such as a labyrinth game that you move by shifting your body weight, and a basketball game you play while standing on a wobbly platform.


Even kids can play the labyrinth games!

Because of the water feature, this park is especially popular on hot days. People will even swim and stand-up-paddleboard in the river.


Climbing into the treehouse

This was definitely Hugo’s favorite place to play in Passau. Every few days he’d request the “water pipe park” as he called it.


A general shot of the whole playground. Please notice that there’s a trampoline! This is really the best playground ever.

Even on days when there were a lot of children at the park, it still never felt crowded because there were so many different places to play.

Lindental Park


First a quick note: I don’t know if this is the actual name of this park, but it’s on Lindental Street, on the Innstadt side of the river.


A lot to do in a small space

This little park is tucked away on a quiet street in Innstadt and is full of fun things to explore. There’s the big fort in the back which looks like something from the pioneer days, swings, a sandbox, a teeter totter, swings, and an area that looks like a horse barn that you can’t see in this picture. This park tended to be very quiet with not a lot of other kids around.

Innpromenade Park


This is probably one of the most popular parks around the old city area because of its central location.


Not to mention its beautiful views across the Inn

There are slides, a play house, and lots of places to climb.




We usually just called this park “The Point” because it’s at the end of the peninsula between the Inn and Danube rivers.


It’s a great spot if you like to play with a scenic backdrop

Notice the people sitting on the bench? The river tour boats dock very close to this park, so there are often a lot of people here. It’s one of the only places that affords a view of all three rivers joining.


It’s a lovely place to sit contemplatively at the top of the slide

In addition to the play structure above, there are also swings, another slide, and a zip line.


Did I mention the lovely view? Danube on the left, Inn on the right, Austria straight ahead.


Mariahilf, the pilgrimage church of Passau

With only a short time left in Passau, we decided to ignore the rain and do a little sightseeing.


The Inn River this morning, around 10am, taken from the bridge. The little staircase from yesterday’s photos is next to that bright white section of wall on the left.

The water level is down a little from yesteday, but the river is still high and swift, and the steady rain continues.

Our first stop was Bäckerei Ratzinger to pick up some Brötchen (small breads) for our picnic lunch, then rounded the corner to the begin our climb to Mariahilf, a church which sits on top of the hill overlooking Passau from the south.


A photo from a sunnier day. You can see Mariahilf at the top, with the roof of the pilgrimage stairs reaching down to town.

Mariahilf was completed in 1627 and for centuries has served as a popular place of pilgrimage.

To get to the sanctuary, you must climb the “heavenly ladder” of 321 steps.



At the bottom, the staircase is plain and unadorned.


As you get higher, you start to see elaborate shrines and mementos left by previous pilgrims. There are statues, photographs, candles, and personal notes left behind in every available nook and cranny.

As we climbed the stairs we saw only one other person. Other than the rain tapping on the roof, the climb was quiet. Many tourists who come to Passau only visit the much larger Dom St. Stephen, leaving Mariahilf feeling serene in comparison.


When you open the door at the top of the stairs you are right outside of the sanctuary.


The sanctuary itself is fairly small.

Above the altar you can see the painting Miraculous Image Maria Hilf for which the church gets its name. It was painted in 1537 by Lucas Cranach the Elder, and became one of the most copied depictions of Mary throughout the region.


We took a minute to light a candle.

The rain had let up, so we went to walk around the grounds.


There’s a walkway around some meadows behind the church.

It turned out to just be a brief break in the rain because then it really started pouring. There is a great overlook spot next to the church where you can see all of Passau and Veste Oberhaus, but we skipped that in favor of the shelter of the stairs.


Candles light our way back down



I guess yesterday’s post was a suitable preview to today’s.

I left the house this morning to go for a run and there was a new sign on the way down to the river path.



I turned the corner down our little secret passage to the Inn river.


Well, this looks different.

Let’s take a closer look.


This is going to make my run along the river a lot more difficult.

I even made a little video:

I went back through my photos to see if I had one where you can see what the riverbank and footpath usually look like. I took this one on May 25th, so exactly one week ago.


This isn’t a great photo (except look, cute ducklings!), but you can see the path that goes along the river which is now underwater.

It’s still raining right now.

Fire and Water

Passau is an old city, with local history dating back to the second century BC. A monastery was founded here in the late 5th century, and, for many years, the diocese of Passau was the largest diocese in the Holy Roman Empire.

In 1662, a fire swept through Passau, destroying the city. It was rebuilt in the Baroque style, full of narrow, meandering cobblestone lanes.


Some people call it the “northernomst Italian city.”


Sometimes the most direct route takes you through an unexpected tunnel or flight of stairs.

The benefits of this are that there is almost no vehicle traffic, so it is very safe for walking wherever you want to go. It’s easy to get lost, though, in the labyrinth of streets. If you don’t know where you are, just head to a river to get your bearings.


You’ll always know you’re on the Artists’ Walk by the rainbow painted cobblestones

Besides the fire in the 17th century, Passau has known it’s fair share of natural disasters.


In Rathausplatz, beside the Danube, you can find this flood gauge. It shows the high water marks of many of the floods in Passau’s history. This highest was in 1501, shortly followed by 2013. (Hugo for scale)

It’s been raining on and off for our entire stay in Passau, with the rivers running high. They’re not threatening to overflow their banks, but the water moves swiftly, and it is visibly higher each day.


If you have a sharp eye, you’ll start to notice flood marks on exterior walls. From bottom to top: 1862, 1786, 1899, 1787, and, high above, 2013.

I’ve started snapping a photo each time I see one.


Bottom to top: 1786, 1899, 1787, 1954, 2013


1862, 1954





I’ll keep looking for high water marks and hoping for sunshine as we enter our last week in Passau.

Veste Oberhaus

Veste Oberhaus, founded in 1219, is a fortress and castle which sits atop St Georgsberg mountain on the left bank of the Danube overlooking Passau. It is a popular tourist site, with free access to the grounds, panoramic views, and a large museum full of interesting displays about local history (5€ for adults, children under 6 are free).


Photo credit: By Aconcagua – Own work, CC BY – SA 3.0,

Getting there is part of the fun: there are stairs that climb that tree-covered hill you see in the photo above.


Just getting started on the climb, looking back at over the Danube

The stairs hug the side of the hill (don’t worry, there’s a railing), and take you inside the walls of the fortress.


Stopping halfway to take in the view of Passau and the Danube

Once you’re inside the walls it becomes more of a trail than stairs, with lots of little places to stop and rest or admire the view.


Hugo grows tired of the panoramic views…


and would rather stop to smell the buttercups.

The climb is actually pretty short, only about 1.5 km from Dom St Stephen. It took us about half an hour with Hugo, who is a reluctant hiker on good days.

When we reached the top we were surprised to discover some historical reenactments going on:


Pretty much exactly like Skyrim

We visited the museum:


Lots of interesting displays, even without any English captions

It had been raining lightly but cleared briefly for us to get a good shot from the viewpoint.

Passau from Veste Oberhaus

In the sunshine you can see the different colors of the two rivers

And an obligatory selfie:


A rare picture of the grown-ups

At last, time to head down.


A Morning at the Market

One of our favorite things to do at home on Saturdays is to go to the farmer’s market. Here, we can do the same thing, except the setting is a little more dramatic.


Dom St. Stephen

Although there are other outdoor markets throughout the week, the one in the plaza in front of St. Stephen’s Cathedral is the closest to our apartment. It’s the usual fruits and vegetables you’d expect from a farmer’s market, plus some bread, meats, and cheeses, and several vendors selling potted plants.


Produce stands in the plaza

What’s for sale these days? Well, it’s strawberry and asparagus season!


These strawberries were so good that I may never eat an American strawberry again.

A local regional specialty is the white asparagus you can see in the top part of the above photo. It has a thicker stalk than the green asparagus, has a milder flavor, and a softer texture. It is grown the same as green asparagus, but as the shoots come up they are covered with soil. Without being exposed to sunlight, no photosynthesis occurs, and they remain white. I had some the other night for dinner, slathered in a butter sauce. Delicious!

There was also a stand selling wooden toys and kitchen utensils.


Hugo keeps insisting that there is a zoo in Passau, but I’m pretty sure these little wooden creatures are as close as he’s going to get

After a lunch of bread, cheese, and strawberries, the cathedral bells started ringing and the crowds of tourists from the Danube cruise boats started pouring in to the square.


Time to head home.

Hunger ist der beste Koch

It’s 5am and everyone is starving. I gave Hugo a piece of chocolate, the only food we had in the apartment, about an hour ago.The bakery on the corner opens at 7. Jet lag can be hard.

There’s a little mural on the wall of our kitchen, drawn in a squishy, doughy font, telling us that Hunger ist der beste Koch. Well, if hunger is the best cook, then this morning’s breakfast, when we finally get it, is going to be amazing.


Flying space ships in the living room, waiting for breakfast

We arrived at our final destination, Passau, Germany, late yesterday afternoon. Our train was delayed, and by the time we checked in to our new apartment and went out to take a look around, most of the shops were closed. It’s a small town, and, except for restaurants, almost everything closes by 6pm. Leaving us with nothing in the house for breakfast when our jet lagged brains woke us up at 4:30am. Except for that chocolate.

Passau is situated on the Austrian border at the confluence of three rivers: the Danube, the Inn, and the Ilz, which has earned it the nickname Dreiflüssestadt, or the “City of Three Rivers.”

Passau Overhead

Photo credit:

I’m looking forward to getting to know Passau and the surrounding area! But first, breakfast.